The Hearty All-American Sandwich Bread I am Baking All Winter Lengthy

January 31, 2025

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Why It Works

Utilizing a cornmeal porridge as a substitute of dry cornmeal as the bottom of the dough retains the bread from having a sandy or gritty texture.
Brushing the baked loaf with butter when it is nonetheless heat softens the crust and offers it a shiny sheen.

New Englanders have an extended custom of remodeling easy, thrifty components into cozy, hearty fare. Anadama bread, the traditional New England loaf, is a superb instance of this kind of cooking. It makes use of pantry staples—on this case, flour, cornmeal, and molasses—in a artistic technique to make a hearty multi-purpose bread that’s nice as a desk bread or for sandwiches.

Rising up in Maine, I usually loved anadama bread eating out with my household—it was a bread basket-staple at family-style eating places there. I’ve at all times beloved the candy taste and barely nubbly texture of anadama bread by itself, and it is even higher when toasted and slathered with salted butter, so I used to be excited to dig into the bread’s historical past and develop my very own recipe for a flavorful, satisfying model of this traditional bread.

Severe Eats / Debbie Wee

Origins of Anadama Bread

In researching the origins of the loaf, I got here throughout many tales of how this bread supposedly bought its identify. In a single model of the folklore, a fisherman dwelling on the North Shore of Massachusetts within the mid-1800s was served a supper of cornmeal mush by his spouse, Anna. Dissatisfied with being served this dinner one too many instances, the fisherman declared “Anna, rattling her!” and added flour, yeast, and molasses to the cornmeal combination to show it into bread as a substitute. In different tellings of the story, a New England sea captain had a spouse named Anna who was an ideal baker, and was well-known for her cornmeal and molasses bread. When she died, her husband put up a headstone in her honor studying, “Anna was a stunning bride, however Anna, Rattling’er, up and died.” Thus, the bread grew to become generally known as “Annadammer” or “Annadama.”

In actuality, New England bakers have been making breads incorporating cornmeal and molasses, corresponding to johnnycakes, for the reason that Colonial period. However, in response to Jonathan Deutsch’s e-book We Eat What? A Cultural Encyclopedia of Uncommon Meals in the USA, in 1850 the identify “Anadama” for this fashion of bread was patented by a bakery in both Rockport or Gloucester, Massachusetts. An organization named Anadama Mixes, Inc. began advertising the bread to prospects in 1876. My guess is that these apocryphal tales stemmed from advertising supplies making an attempt to show prospects the way to pronounce the identify of the product. However, we’ll most likely by no means know for positive.

Making a Nice Anadama Loaf

What we do know, nonetheless, is that this bread is (rattling) scrumptious. Staying true to not less than one of many tales, I begin by making a cornmeal porridge on the stovetop. Cooking the cornmeal this fashion hydrates and barely softens it, which helps maintain the baked loaf from being dry and gritty. 1 / 4 cup of molasses stirred into the cornmeal provides a light-weight sweetness and caramel shade to the bread with out overpowering it. Progressively working the combination of flour, yeast, and salt into the porridge kinds a stiff dough which turns tender and pliable because it proves.

Severe Eats / Debbie Wee

Shaping the dough right into a easy cylinder earlier than tucking it tightly right into a loaf pan offers it a traditional sandwich bread form whereas letting it rise till an inch above the pan ensures correct proofing for a fluffy, tender crumb. When you underproof it lower than this, it’s probably the loaf will end up dense and squat.

I end the bread by brushing the highest of the loaf with a bit of bit of additional butter for a beautiful, shiny, tender crust that I simply know would make Anna (if she ever existed) proud.